Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
